Visitors to Port Avalon in winter bring the wrong coat. It is rarely below freezing here. The problem is the wind off the bay, which finds every gap in your clothes.
The answer, according to every fisher, sailor and market trader we asked, is a scarf big enough to wrap twice, in real wool. The best ones in town are woven by Hollis Mill, a one-loom workshop in an old chandlery near the quay.
Hollis Mill makes about 400 scarves a year, from the wool of sheep on the salt marshes north of the city. They cost $140, and the owner, Bea Hollis, will mend one for free for as long as you own it.

