The coast road leaves Port Avalon past the container port and, within twenty minutes, is a narrow two-lane road between dunes and farmland. It runs 140 miles north to the lighthouse at Cape Morrow. You can drive it in an afternoon. You should not.
Day one: Saltmarsh and the oyster farms
Stop at the oyster farm stalls in Saltmarsh, where you can eat a dozen on an upturned crate for $15. The campground at Dune Point takes vans without booking out of season.
Day two: the cliffs
North of Gannet Bay, the road climbs onto the cliffs. There are five laybys with views worth stopping for, and one café, the Kettle, which closes when the owner decides it is closing.

Day three: Cape Morrow
The lighthouse keeper’s cottage is now a museum, open on weekends. Climb the 112 steps, then drive home the fast way, inland, in three hours.

